What’ s So Hot About Hot Springs?

Hot Springs NP, Arkansas

The View From Bathhouse Row

Before we wind up falling further behind in posting than we already are, here’s a post on our time in Hot Springs. Arkansas from January-March 2017. Our first visit to this area was in 2010 before we were full time RVers. Still dazzled by the splendor of the western parks we were very unimpressed with Hot Springs and left wondering why this was a National Park. A National Historic Site or even a Monument but a National Park? We are so glad that we had the opportunity to return, spend time and learn about both the national park and the city. We really had missed the boat the first time around! So if you come here be sure and take the time to do tours and come prepared to learn. Both the park and the city have lots to offer but you can’t do it by whizzing through in a day or less. It is like an iceberg. There’s what you see above the water but when you start looking deeper there’s more and more.

A Tub In The Fordyce

Fordyce Music Room

The Quapaw Bathhouse

Us At Work In The Fordyce

 

 

Chari’s Reflection In The Hale Bathhouse Window

 

 

Monument To The First NPS Ranger Killed On Duty

 

We were working at the Fordyce Bathhouse Visitor Center, the museum and information center for Hot Springs National Park on Central Avenue in the historic district. There are 8 remaining bathhouses along what is known as Bathhouse Row in the national park and 6 of them are open to the public: the Fordyce visitor center, the Lamar gift shop and the Ozark art museum for the park, 2 operating bathhouses (the Buckstaff and the Quapaw) and the Superior microbrewery. So here’s some of what we learned and shared during our tours.

The Buckstaff, The Lamar and The Former Army-Navy Hospital (now ACTI)

Hot Springs National Park is the smallest of the 59 National Parks and the only one with a city completely within its borders. The geology of the hot springs is special because it is one of only 2 in North America not heated by volcanic activity. The rainwater takes 4,400 yrs. to travel over a mile and a half into the earth reaching 150 degrees but returns to the surface in about a year thus retaining its heat (139-143 degrees). So when you drink from the springs you are drinking water that fell as rain at the time the Egyptians were building the pyramids! That’s another big difference. Most national parks warn you to not take anything while Hot Springs NP encourages you to drink the water and take some with you by having drinking and jug fountains all around. In fact the original legislation protecting the hot springs states that the water will forever be free to the people.

Historic Hot Springs, Arkansas

 

It Is Always Spring Time In Hot Springs

 

Filling Up At The Jug Fountain

 

The Stevens Fountain

Old Hot Springs Artwork At The Ozark

The springs yield, on average, 700,000 gallons per day. Of that the park collects and distributes about 250,000 gallons. People come from hours away to fill pickup trucks full of bottles with the mineral rich water. Don’t want to drink hot water? There are two cold springs from another source as well. However, don’t expect to dip in the springs outside. They’ve been covered up for over a century to protect them from man-made and natural contamination. We occasionally had the opportunity to assist the water technicians as they tested the springs each week. The park contains the oldest land in the world ever set aside by a government to protect a natural resource. That was in 1832. If they had named it a national park back then, Hot Springs rather than Yellowstone would have been our first national park. Instead it was called Hot Springs Reservation and did not come under the NPS until 1921 as the 18th national park.

Volunteers Help With Water Testing

Recording Water Quality Data

So what is a bathhouse? In the days before modern medicine (post WWII) as we know it, people had few medications and surgery was very risky. So they depended upon the curative properties of heat, light, water, exercise and later electricity. The bathhouses were the rehabilitation facilities of the day. We told visitors that coming to Hot Springs was coming to the Mayo Clinic on one side of the street (Bathhouse Row) and Las Vegas before Las Vegas existed in the city. Hot Springs was also the primary spring training area for major league baseball before it relocated to Florida. Other sports stars like Jack Dempsey trained here. Babe Ruth hit his longest home run here (over 500′). Follow the signs on the Baseball trail to learn more.The museum is filled with interesting old equipment.The Fordyce featured the best appointed gym in Arkansas when it opened in 1915. A few items like the Hubbard tank from the 30s and the Hoyer lift from the 50s I used during my career as a physical therapist. Well, not those models but a generation later. Once again I’m seeing my life in a museum! Make sure to take the guided tour and hear some stories. When that’s done, take a hike or drive and check out the view from the observation tower. Steve was reading in preparation for our next volunteer job about some of the ways Lewis and Clark handled medical issues using Indian sweat lodges and alternate heat and cold. Equipment may change but principles stay the same.

Fordyce Gym

Indian Clubs

The Hubbard Tank Room

Chari and Steve Hiking On Hot Springs Mountain

The city is just as interesting. Gambling, bootlegging and other carnal activities were the main business. While never legal it flourished d/t payoffs to police and government official until the mid 1960s. When Winthrop Rockefeller was elected he vowed to clean up corruption and gambling. He did. Learn more at the Ganster Museum. We enjoyed the tour there and as you can see hammed it up a bit with some pics. At the same time the golden age of the bathhouse was declining. Hot Springs fell on hard times. In the late 1980s the NPS remodeled the Fordyce Bathhouse into the Visitor Center and repurposed others. This was no small task. Today you can visit the Fordyce and see the most opulent of bathhouses restored to its former beauty. Don’t miss the beautiful stained glass on three of the four floors or ride the original elevator car. Only the Buckstaff never closed its doors. Today you can experience treatment as if it were one hundred years ago at the Buckstaff or enjoy the mineral rich spring water at the Quapaw Baths spa pools. We did both and came out feeling like a piece of cooked spaghetti each time! I (Steve) had a bad cold and went to the Quapaw. Almost immediately I could feel the congestion in my chest lessening. I do believe soaking in the water cut the length of my cold in half. 

Make My Day! Steve At The Gangster Museum

This Lady Is Serious!

 

Stained Glass In The Fordyce Women’s Bath Hall

Skylight In The Music Room

Neptune’s Daughter

The architecture of the town from the 1890s-1940s is terrific and makes for some great photos. Like to shop? Only your credit card limit will dictate where and how much. Hungry? We enjoyed numerous good restaurants in Hot Springs. A few of our favorites were McClard’s for BBQ (also Bill Clinton’s), Colorado Grill for Mexican, Rolando’s for Ecuadorian, buffets at the Arlington Hotel, a Southern Living best breakfast winner Colonial Cafe and the Ohio Club where you can rub elbows with Al Capone (or at least his statue). For fun in the evening catch the monthly free performances of the Jazz Society, attend a show at the Five Star Dinner Theatre or feel like a kid at the Maxwell Blade Magic Show. Garvin Gardens was just as magical in the Spring as it had been at Christmas with a sea of tulips at peak bloom. We didn’t go to the horserace at Oaklawn but it is a big attraction from late winter through April. In summer there is the Magic Springs amusement park and all the water sports of lakes Hamilton, Catherine and Ouachita plus the Belle of Hot Springs riverboat.

Exterior Window At The Fordyce

The Arlington Hotel Lobby

 

Stairway At The Ozark

Volunteers And Ranger Touring The Archives

Ranger Leading A Guided Tour

Best Breakfast In Town

The Name Says It All

Tasting A Flight At Superior Brewery

When all is said and done it is the people from Hot Springs National Park we will remember. We made new friends with several volunteers. The Rangers were fantastic. They coached us and taught us so that we could hone our interpretive skills. They made it possible for us to visit places not open to the public such as the water distribution system, the Hale and Maurice Bathhouses and the museum archives. They thanked us for our time volunteering at least once a day. While we enjoy new experiences by volunteering at different parks or for different agencies, if we ever do repeat a job this will rank high on the list. Thank You Hot Springs National Park for a fabulous three months!

The End!

Raindrops On Roses

zen garden panoramic blog

As our rainy week at Mount desert Island continued to curtail outside activities we went in search of things to do outside of the park.  Every National Park is there for a reason but the beauty doesn’t end at the park borders. By exploring beyond the park we’ve found some hidden gems. We encourage you to “think outside the park”.

While we were in Camden another camper told us about some beautiful gardens near Acadia. He wasn’t sure of their exact location. I Googled ‘gardens Bar Harbor’ and found some general directions for gardens off Route 1 (Peabody Drive) in Northeast Harbor.  We drove by the parking area for Asticou Landing and the harbor the first time. Signage is very discreet i.e. it helps you if you already know where you are going. This was a lucky accident however as it led to Thuya Drive and Thuya Gardens. Thuya Drive is a residential street leading to the gardens. It might as well have been part of the gardens. It was beautiful.  We spent twenty minutes hopping out of the car every tenth of a mile to photograph the hillside. Mother Nature is a fantastic landscaper.

Maine, garden, woods

Driving To Thuya 1

scenic drive, Maine

Driving To Thuya 2

More Scenes From Thuya Drive

More Scenes From Thuya Drive

garden

A Misty Day At Thuya Gardens

flower, photography

Raindrops On Globe Amaranth

Pineing Away

Pineing Away

Dalhia in HDR Monochrome Soft

Dalhia in HDR Monochrome Soft

Thuya Garden

Thuya Garden

Lichen And Moss

Lichen And Moss

Leaf Lichen On Tree

Leaf Lichen On Tree

Eventually we reached the parking lot for Thuya Gardens. Originally this was the summer home of Joseph Henry Curtis, a renowned landscape architect and civil engineer from Boston. He designed the terraced trail to serve as a path from the harbor to his home called Thuya Lodge after the local white cedar, thuja occidentalis.  Upon his death he gifted the property to the community under trustee management. The adjacent apple orchard was developed into a semi-formal English style garden in the style of Gertrude Jekyll by two other Bar Harbor landscape architects, Beatrix Farrand and Charles K. Savage. Many of the original plants were purchased from Beatrix Farrand’s garden in 1956. The property is now owned and operated by the Mount Desert Land & Garden Preserve, a non-profit corporation.  Their website is www.gardenpreserve.org.  You may visit the garden for a donation of $5.

NE harbor HDR B+W soft

HDR Version Of Photo Looking Down On Northeast Harbor

Path On Thuya Ledges

Path On Thuya Ledges

Steve At Thuya Ledges

Steve At Thuya Ledges

garden, Maine, Bar Harbor

Thuya Ledges

Thuya Terraces Shown As A Woodblock Print

Thuya Terraces Shown As A Woodblock Print

Laurel At Thuya Ledges

Laurel At Thuya Ledges

We returned to the harbor landing and parked. Then we walked to both the harbor and across the street to Thuya Terraces.  (Steve) this was my favorite part.  I loved the way the terraces were incorporated into the natural beauty of the area. It combines landscaping and nature at its best.  Although overcast, the harbor view was a fantastic site. The oriental style of the overlook shelters added a graceful element. (Chari) I’ve always been attracted to oriental design and took the opportunity to play with some post processing of photos taken here.

Third but not last by any means was Asticou Azalea Gardens located just half a mile away.  This garden was also designed and built by Charles K. Savage, owner of the Asticou Inn.  He obtained financial support from John D. Rockefeller, Jr. to purchase the plant collection of Beatrix Farrand when her Reef Point estate was dismantled in 1956.  This is a Japanese style garden adapted to the native plants and coastal conditions of Maine. Asticou Gardens is open to the public from May 1st until October 31st.  We were there at the end of the blooming period for the azaleas but many summer plants such as smoke bush, Japanese iris and rosebay were stars.  Fall is also a great time to visit here as autumn color combines with re-blooming azaleas. An expansion of the garden was begun in 2007 and will continue for several years.

You already know we’ve said “When we come back …”

garden, Maine

Reflecting On Asticou

Grooming The Zen Garden

Grooming The Zen Garden

Rhododendrons At Asticou

Rhododendrons At Asticou

Asticou Scenery

Asticou Scenery

Peaceful Asticou

Peaceful Asticou