London Bridge Isn’t Falling Down

Lake Havasu City

View Of Lake Havasu City From The London Bridge

So far our Spring travels through Arizona had been full of mishaps. So as we headed to Lake Havasu City on the AZ/CA border would it be third time is the charm or three strikes and you’re out? We are glad to report that all was well and we had a fabulous week. Our campsite at Lake Havasu State Park was one of the best we’ve ever had. The weather was glorious and you can see why this is another snowbird Mecca. You are immediately identified as a visitor if you say Lake Havasu as the residents simply slip over the the second A and say Hav-su.

London Bridge, Arizona, history

1831 London Bridge At Lake Havasu City

The icon of the area is the London Bridge which was moved here from London during the early days of development at Lake Havasu and opened in 1971. The developer needed a bridge from shore to an island resort. Hearing the London Bridge was for sale he purchased it, built an inner structure of steel then moved the exterior blocks to Arizona and rebuilt it. Each solid granite stone was numbered, transported and reinstalled. Some numbers are still visible. I had the bridge tour on my list of things to do. I thought it would be very touristy and trivial but being a “good hubby” I agreed to go. The tours are given only a few times each week and last about 90 minutes. It starts with a bit of history. Here we learned that there have been several London Bridges over the centuries. The children’s song “London Bridge Is Falling Down” refers to when the Vikings came up the Thames and rammed the bridge causing it to fall into the river. Then we walked around and over the bridge while our British tour guide gave a very good talk. We learned that the lamps on the bridge were fabricated from Napoleon’s cannon after his defeat by the British. There is even a spot where two American G. I.’s carved their initials during WWII. Much to my surprise the tour was excellent and well worth taking. Told you so!

Architectural Drawing Showing Numbered Blocks For Demolition And Reconstruction

Architectural Drawing Showing Numbered Blocks For Demolition And Reconstruction

Old Drawing Of London Bridge Opening In 1851

Old Drawing Of London Bridge Opening In 1831

Walking Across London Bridge

Walking Across London Bridge

From Guns To Lamposts

From Guns To Lamposts

Picture From The London Bridge Visitor Center...What Fool Would Be Out Here?

Picture From The London Bridge Visitor Center…What Fool Would Be Out Here?

We did also enjoyed the local community theatre production of Sweeney Todd, local ice cream and did some shopping as we’d be heading into sparsely populated areas in the near future.

We visited the Bill Williams NWR and planned to return for a kayak trip but then got busy with other things and never returned. A good reason to return if we need to have an excuse. The refuge is located with the Visitor Center on the lake side and wonderful wilderness trails across the road in a desert area. What a contrast!

Bill Williams NWR

Bill Williams NWR

Six months ago Chari had reconnected with her second cousin, Kathy, who lives near Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Although they have been e-mailing they have not seen each other in forty years. Kathy and her daughter, Emily, were spending a long weekend in Las Vegas which was about three hours away. We decided to meet halfway in Laughlin, NV. Kathy has become the Manchester family genealogist and has discovered lots of interesting history. I never knew I had an ancestor from Switzerland or that there was a family farm in New York only 100 miles from where I grew up! We met for brunch and had a great time.

Desertscape Walk

Desertscape Walk

Kelso, Mohave Desert Preserve

Kelso Depot At Mohave Desert Preserve

Another day Steve and I went for one of our “day trips” of 150 miles or so to visit the Mohave Desert Preserve NPS site. We were enchanted by the desert landscape and spoke with the ranger in charge of volunteers about the possibility of working here during the winter of 2017. We’ll stay in touch. We only had time for a quick visit but did watch the park movie which shows the varied areas of the park. Kelso Depot is an old train station (1924) from the days when the town of Kelso was a thriving community. Kelso was where trains headed west stopped to pick up their “helper” engines to climb the steep terrain of the Providence Mountains and reload with water for the steam engines. The depot was also used by Union Pacific RR workers as a dormitory and recreation facility. Kelso faded away after WWII when the more powerful diesel engines became commonplace and was closed in 1985. The depot was saved from demolition and became the NPS Visitor Center in 2005. During WWII Kelso was also the home of workers from the nearby Vulcan Mine (iron ore). Between the RR workers and the miners Kelso had many drunken residents who wound up spending a day or two in the town’s jail. The jail had been moved to the backyard garden of some Barstow residents after the depot closed but was returned and donated when NPS took over.

jail

The Kelso Jail

Kelso Post

Kelso PostOffice

Rt. 66

Opal And Steve On Rt. 66

Another day of exploring took us to one of the best preserved sections along former Route 66 between Kingman and Seligman in Arizona. As we approached the town of Oatman, which had been touted as a picturesque town on 66, we found several creosote bushes with decorations left from Christmas. A local custom we presumed. We arrived in Oatman and parked in the city lot. You need to pick your way carefully through town as one of the “attractions” are the “wild” burros. The burros are used to being fed hay cubes you can buy and are not shy nor are they reluctant to leave the remains. Step carefully! When we arrived a show for all the tourist buses had the one and only street blocked so we checked out some shops. Only one description is needed for this place: Tourist Trap!!! When the road finally opened we continued along Rt. 66 and did find some real wild burros, great scenery, Yucca plants in bloom and an interesting remnant of days past called Rock Spring. It was a former gas station along Rt. 66 now a convenience store and museum. There was a lot of interesting memorabilia here. It has retained a lot of its character because, much to the owners dismay, the tour buses can’t negotiate the tight turns between Oatman and Rock Springs.

Rt. 66, Arizona

Leftover From Christmas

Tourist Feeding Burro In Oatman

Tourist Feeding Burro In Oatman

 

 

 

 

 

Yucca In Bloom

Yucca In Bloom

 

 

humor

Roadside Humor On 66

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wild Burros On Rt. 66

Wild Burros On Rt. 66

Rock Springs Drawing

Rock Springs Drawing

Cars From The Past On A Road From The Past

Cars From The Past On A Road From The Past

A Pegasus On 66

A Pegasus On 66

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rock Springs Gas Pumps

Rock Springs Gas Pumps

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rt. 66 Memories

Rt. 66 Memories

Time to leave Arizona for this trip. Next stop is Lake Mead National Recreation Area which is only three hours away.

Our Wonderful Time As Volunteers At Petrified Forest National Park

Well here it is our last day of work as volunteers at Petrified Forest National Park. It is with mixed emotions that we will pack up and set off on new adventures in a few days. We’d planned on doing several posts while here at the park. But you know how things can keep sliding from today to tomorrow to next week. So instead of a lot of details about how all of the trees turned to stone 225 million years ago we offer a half hour slide show instead. The show also includes a few pictures from Canyon de Chelly, Route 66, Winslow and Christmas 2014.

When you see the petrified wood there are two types. The colorful pieces are agatized (fully petrified) and the pieces that still look like wood are per mineralized (petrification process was interrupted). A cubic foot of fully petrified wood weighs about 200 lbs. so you can just imagine how heavy some of these trees are.

To view the video full screen, click on the center arrow to play then click on the diagonal arrow in the lower right corner.

We hope you will get to visit and enjoy this interesting and beautiful place for yourselves some day. Until then, sit back, put your feet up and enjoy!

Christmas At La Posada

Winslow, Arizona, La Posada

Celebrating Christmas At La Posada

When we began our RV lifestyle we decided that gifts for special occasions would be experiences rather than “stuff”. Continuing on with this trend for our third Christmas on the road we celebrated by having dinner at the La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona, http://www.laposada.org. It was, for us, a very big splurge. Was it worth it? You bet. The hotel and the Turquoise Room restaurant are beautiful any time of the year but no better time than when decked out in holiday finery. Joining us were fellow RV volunteers, Carolyn and Ed.

Steve and I have become very interested in the story about the Harvey House Hotels, the Harvey girls and Mary Jane Colter through our studies at Petrified Forest National Park. The Painted Desert Inn, now a National Historic Landmark, was managed by the Fred Harvey Company following WWII. During the renovation, Colter, their lead architect brightened the interior, put in picture windows and had Fred Kabotie paint several murals. Very few of the Harvey House buildings remain today. You can read the Fred Harvey Story in “Appetite For America: Fred Harvey and the Business of Civilizing the Wild West- One Meal At A Time” by Stephen Fried. Who knows, maybe you’ll become a Fredhead too!

Fred Harvey, Harvey Houses

Fred Harvey

La Posada like so many historical properties went from riches to rags and was restored to its former glory. Briefly, here is the story. When Fred Harvey (1835-1901) left Liverpool, England at age 15 little could he imagine that people would still be talking about him more than one hundred years after his death. He started in the restaurant business as a dishwasher. He spent every minute learning from chefs, owners and workers. He wanted to create fine hotels and restaurants in the American West. Working with the Santa Fe Railroad he built a chain of hotels and restaurants in towns along the tracks. Known for excellent food, top drawer service and beautiful decor Harvey Houses became destinations themselves. He was one of the first employers to use women as trained servers. The Harvey Girls had to be single, have an eighth grade education, be of good moral character and commit to at least a year contract. They could not marry while employed, were known for their crisp black and white uniforms and lived in company housing with curfews. Like the hotels, being a Harvey Girl became a desired career. After Fred Harvey’s death the company was run by his sons. They expanded into working with the National Parks.

Mary Jane Colter At Work In The Grand Canyon

Mary Jane Colter At Work In The Grand Canyon

It was during this period that they employed Mary Jane Colter (1869-1958), first as an interior designer then as architect. Some of her best known work is at the Grand Canyon National Park. She designed La Posada as if it were the grand hacienda of a wealthy family of Spanish heritage. It was the jewel in the Harvey House crown. Following WWII Americans turned away from railroads as a means of travel in favor of improved roads and airplanes. La Posada closed as a hotel in 1957. The furnishings and decor items were auctioned off. The building was repurposed as office space for the railroad and a medical clinic. Fast forward to 1997 when two new owners with a vision purchased the building and sixteen acres of land. Gradually they have restored this grand hotel into a destination once again. If you find yourself traveling along I-40 be sure and stop. Watch the documentary about the restoration. Eat in the restaurant. Stay the night. Rooms are very competitively priced. Traveling with a dog? No problem. Lots of dogs bring their owners here.

Until you can enjoy this gem for yourself here are a few pictures from our visit. It was too late by the time we finished eating to go “Stand on the Corner” but yes, this is the same Winslow memorialized in the Eagles song.

Turquoise Room, restaurant

The Turquoise Room

Gift Shop

Gift Shop

Famous American Women

Famous American Women

Light, Action, Camera

Light, Action, Camera

Eat Dessert First

Eat Dessert First

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Native American Rug

Native American Rug

Spanish galleon

Spanish Galleon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Happy New Year

Cheers From Us and Happy New Year

 

 

 

 

This Place Bugs Me!

Christmas, Kennedy Space Center

Christmas 2013 at KSC

We are not finished with some great things from St. Augustine but you’ll see why there’s an interruption in a moment. For our second stop in Florida we moved about three hours south to Sebastian Inlet SP near Vero Beach. It had still been “cold” in St. Augustine so we welcomed the warmer temperatures or at least I did!. We’d be here for Christmas so Steve put up our tree again. This time he hung it from a tree branch with a bungee and spread the base further. It looked very good.

However we quickly discovered a problem. No-see-ums were everywhere! Chari reacts quite strongly to any insect bite with huge welts that last a week. Steve usually doesn’t react very much and 10 minutes later you wouldn’t know he’d been bitten. Not so here. Even Steve was showing welts. Within a day or so my legs and to a lesser extent my arms and torso were covered with bites. I was forever scratching. My legs looked like I’d walked through poison ivy. I was going to take a picture but then thought it was too gross looking. Now other people seemed to tolerate them. Bug spray and repellent didn’t work. Steve seemed to become immune after a few days. Not Chari. She was miserable the whole time. So instead of doing a lot of outside activities we stayed inside. With regret as it is a nice park we put this on the DO NOT RETURN list.

Adding insult to injury Chari’s computer took a bath. I was sitting under our awning which was only halfway extended due to some tree branches. All of a sudden condensation from having had the A/C on at night came rolling down. All over me! All over my open laptop. Quickly mopping up the computer everything seemed to work so I thought I’d dodged a bullet. About an hour later the keyboard stopped working. To make a long story short my computer has been in the repair shop for about a week. Working on the iPad for photo editing and posting to the blog leaves a lot to be desired. Steve’s working on a book on our May – December 2012 travels. So even batting my lovely hazel eyes at him and a “if you really loved me you’d let me use your computer” look goes unnoticed.

I notice it but I don’t acknowledge it!

We got to see the METLIFE blimp fly over just before New Years. We guessed it was down here for the Orange Bowl. Cute Snoopy character on the front but you might not be able to see it as all we had available was the iPhone.

blimp

Snoopy In The Skies

We did check out another park, a county park called Long Point, when we kayaked there. We didn’t notice any bugs so if we return to the area we’ll stay there. While kayaking we watched two osprey hunting. They’d dive and grab a fish but often they came up empty. We could have watched them for hours.

A Loaf Of Bread, A Hunk Of Cheese And Pasta For Dinner.

A Loaf Of Bread, A Hunk Of Cheese And Pasta For Dinner.

So Now For Some Fresh Citrus

So Now For Some Fresh Citrus

Without the computer I’m falling behind on the blog. So if you see things posted later that seem out of order hopefully you’ll remember why. We did go to Ft. Pierce to the Farmers Market on Saturday where we bought some great cheese, bread and citrus. We also bought an organic bug spray advertised for no-see-ums.. That didn’t work either. Also in Ft. Pierce is the UDT (underwater demolition team) and SEAL Museum. Steve has “volunteered” to do that entry.

Our Christmas present to each other was a trip to the Kennedy Space Center with a behind the scenes tour of the VAB (vehicle assembly building) and launch pad. There is so much to see we were glad the tickets were good for a week. We made a second trip up to see the IMAX movie Hubble 3D, take the Shuttle Launch Experience and to finish the exhibits. We attended a lecture by a retired shuttle astronaut, Sam Gemar, and had a photo op with him. When a little girl asked him what his favorite food was in space, he answered “shrimp cocktail”. The reason for this is that the taste buds loose sensitivity in space so spicy foods taste better. Between weightlessness and no taste buds maybe I could finally loose weight! On the way home from our second visit we stopped at the Astronaut Hall of Fame as our KSC tickets covered admission here as well. Both at the Space Center and at the Hall of Fame we became aware that only a few other folks were probably alive when all of this was happening. Once again we find ourselves seeing our lives in a museum. Was it really that long ago? Anyway, consider this a coming attraction notice for a video.

Kennedy Space Center, Christmas, Florida, space exploration.

Coming Attraction For Our Video

blog, Homeless and Loving It, NASA, astronaut, space shuttle

Chari and Steve With Space Shuttle Astronaut

You all know we call our RV the DreamChaser. So when we saw that one of the next generation shuttles by Sierra Nevada Corporation was being given the same name we wondered, is this what RVs will look like in space? In the early years NASA did all of its own engineering. Now that will be in the private sector and NASA will rent vehicles as needed for missions. This model is a 1/3 scale model.

Dream Chaser In Space

Dream Chaser In Space

Within 48 hours away from Sebastian Inlet SP, at our next park, Lake Louisa SP, I finally stopped itching (and yes you could also put a B in front of that). Oh, you have no idea how good that feels!

Colorful Citrus Box Labels

Colorful Citrus Box Labels

After ten days my computer with what they called a new top case is back and working great. When we drove over from Orlando to Vero Beach to pick it up, we stopped at the Citrus Museum. It’s a small but very interesting place and the docent gave us a free tour. Here’s a piece of trivia for you… did you know that 75% of the grapefruit grown in the Indian River Valley are shipped to Japan! Don’t order it over there though unless you are ready to pay $15-20 each! After the tour we know why our favorite oranges, Honeybells, are so expensive. If they tried to use mechanical pickers or even pluck them the skin breaks off from the stem leaving fruit exposed. So they must be hand cut from the tree. Oh, but they are so sweet and juicy! The docent gave us directions to Poinsettia Growers processing plant where they have a small store. Crab from the factory in Cape Breton to fresh Honeybells from the grower in Florida. Can you believe this life?

St. Augustine Lights Up For The Holidays

St. Augustine, Christmas

St. Augustine City Hall and Fountain

After having a jump start on holiday decorations with our visit to McAdenville, NC we were looking forward to seeing what St. Augustine might do for the season. Our hopes were met and exceeded by the whole historic district dressing in stands of white lights, restaurants sporting seasonal decor and homes and B&Bs looking so very inviting. The pre-holiday weeks are a great time to visit although we doubt that there is ever a bad time. The old historic section of St. Augustine is very walkable.   The night we chose to stroll and see the lights was mild and the streets were crowded. Holiday trolleys with passengers singing and yelling “Merry Christmas” were rolling the streets. As for parking we were able to find a lot at the Villa Zorayda that let us stay after we finished the tour.

Villa Zorayda, architecture

Villa Zorayda Exterior

The Villa Zorayda is open all year for self guided tours with an audio guide. Several nights a week in the weeks before Christmas the curator and his wife lead candlelight tours of the once elegant home cum museum. Villa Zorayda stands out from surrounding buildings due to its Moorish architecture and bright colors. It was built by Franklin Smith, a Boston millionaire, in 1883, as a 1/10 scale model of one section of the Alhambra in Granada, Spain. It was the first building to reintroduce Spanish revival architecture to Florida. Franklin Smith was an innovator in the use of poured concrete. His home was built mixing local coquina stone and cement in blocks made of wooden forms. Another feature of the house was the interior plaster work was made overseas using the same wooden molds used to build the Alhambra. Can you imagine a museum today loaning a valuable artifact like that for use in construction? Smith was a collector of Spanish and Middle Eastern art and antiques. After he died the home was used as a private club, speakeasy and movie set. The second owner was Edward Mussallem, a Lebanese immigrant and well  respected oriental rug dealer and antiquities expert. The Villa gained fame for the private collection and was opened as a museum in the 1950s. The property has remained in the Mussallem family and the curator’s wife is Edward Mussallem’s granddaughter. In 2000 the museum was closed for renovation and artifact restoration. Reopening in 2008 just in time to celebrate its 125th anniversary, Villa Zorayda is enchanting. Whether it is the gold leaf ceiling murals, the oldest known rug ( estimated to be 3400 yrs. old) or the history, your tour will be money well spent. Normally photography is not allowed. However during the candlelight tour photos of the main plaza called the Court of Lions, after a room in the Alhambra, are permitted.

Tour, Christmas, St. Augustine.

Inside The Court Of Lions

After the tour we took our tripods and headed out to practice nighttime photography. So come stroll with us and enjoy St. Augustine in her holiday finery.

MERRY CHRISTMAS FROM CHARI AND STEVE!

City Hall At Night

City Hall At Night

Christmas Lights

Old Town Lights

Old Town Plaza

Old Town Plaza

City Sidewalks, Busy Sidewalks

City Sidewalks, Busy Sidewalks

St. Augustine City Tree

St. Augustine City Tree

Entrance To The Lightner Museum

Entrance To The Lightner Museum

St. Augustine Street Scene

St. Augustine Street Scene

Holiday Cheer

Holiday Cheer

Roadside Humor # 3

We found this Holiday greeting a bit late as we drove past cotton fields in southern Georgia. It put a smile on our faces and we hope it does the same for you. Click on the picture to enlarge for easier reading.

Roadside Humor

Holiday Humor In The Cotton Field

Paddles, Pedals And Playas On Saint George Island

We are starting the New Year off with a change to the blog as far as theme. Now our page will have a sidebar listing the most recent posts and an archive list by month so you can look back easily if you wish to refer to a past post without scrolling through every post. You can also search the blog by keyword if you can’t remember where you saw something or if you are new to our blog and have a special interest area. Let us know how you like it. We have our own new feature photo too. We will have links to major sites mentioned here so you can just click on them to get more information.

SGI, Apalachicola

Bridge To SGI

When we left you in the Alabama post we were late leaving for our 5 hour drive to Apalachicola, Florida. Our “home” for the next 2 weeks would be Saint George Island State Park. We really try to make it to the parks before sundown. (Backing the trailer into an unfamiliar site in the dark isn’t always the easiest thing to do.  Steve) Today that was not to be. We crossed the Apalachicola Bay bridge then the almost 5 mile bridge out to Saint George Island turned left and got to the park about twenty minutes after sunset. The sign at the entrance said “park closes at sunset” and the gate was down. We didn’t know the code to get in! Thank goodness for cell phones. We called the park number and someone was able to give us the code. We found our site and parked. It was level enough so we could make do and stay connected to adjust our position in the morning. From now on if we’re going to arrive after sunset we will call and check about closing time and gate access. Live and learn.

We Love SGI!

We Love SGI!

This is our second visit to Florida’s Hidden Coast as the area is nicknamed. It runs about 150 miles roughly from Panama City on the west to Tallahasse on the east. Apalachicola (known as Apalach to the natives) is the largest town on this strip. Apalachicola is itself just a small town of shrimp and oyster fisherman and tourism. It is the kind of place we love with quaint 1880s-1920s buildings,  locally owned businesses, great seafood and empty sandy beaches. Last February we stayed at Saint Joe Peninsula SP about 35 miles to the west. While we enjoyed the park the sites would be too small for our new trailer. We’ll spend time at on a barrier island known as SGI to the natives, to the east of town. The campground at SGI is smaller with 50 sites but they are large, private and level. The island is approximately 20 miles long by 1 mile wide and the park is located on the easternmost 9 miles. There is a sandy Nature Trail connecting the campground to the East Slough beach access on the Gulf and another primitive spur going off to the lagoon side. Opal and I made good use of these for our morning walks. Dogs are not allowed on the park beaches but SGI does allow them on leashes. Toward the middle of our visit we found a beach access on the Apalachicola Estuary Research land that is open to foot traffic only and Opal could be free to run wade and roll in the sand. The campground had a resident Great Horned Owl who sang us to sleep most nights with his HOO-HOO-DE-HOO.

St. George State Park

Nature Trail At SGI State Park

shells, seashore

Shells In The Surf

Google Earth, Apalachicola

Google Earth View Of Apalachicola Area

Since we didn’t get anything published in our old blog from the trip last year due to life going into warp drive we’ll combine some pictures from both trips. Last year the weather was cool and wet so we did a great deal of exploring since it wasn’t good beach weather. This year the weather was in the 50s-70s and much sunnier so we did more kayaking, biking and beach walking hence the name of the post Paddles, Pedals and Playas (Spanish for beach). Yes we are showing off our high school Spanish.

A quick look back at our February 2012 trip:

1) Finding a great dog beach which we named Opal Beach that had wonderful driftwood for photos too

2) Touring local museums such as the Florida Constitution Museum in Port St. Joe and the John Gorrie Museum http://www.floridastateparks.org/johngorriemuseum/default.cfm in Apalachicola

3) Visiting Florida Caverns SP http://www.floridastateparks.org/floridacaverns/  and Wakulla Springs SP http://www.floridastateparks.org/wakullasprings/ for photography ops

4) Prowling the shrimp boat docks for more photo ops

5) Walking historic Apalachicola for yet more photo ops

driftwood, beach

Driftwood At Opal Beach

Steve and Opal At St. Joe Peninsula Beach 2/2012

Steve and Opal At St. Joe Peninsula Beach 2/2012

Florida, Caverns

Inside Florida Caverns

Atamasco lily

Atamasco Lily At Florida Caverns

egret, Wakulla Springs

Egret At Wakulla Springs

birds, anhinga

Anhinga In Breeding Plumage On Wakulla River

shrimp boats

Net Results At Shrimp Boat Dock

Florida, shrimp boats

Shrimp Boats I

Apalachicola, Florida

Apalachicola Home

Merry Christmas

Merry Christmas From Site 45

This year we’d be here over Christmas and New Years. Not having room for a tree we decorated the outside of the trailer. Our new lifestyle calls for not adding to any “stuff” we carry. We’ve adopted a “If we can’t eat it, wear it, take photos with it or put it in the gas tank we don’t need it” attitude. So instead of buying each other presents we decided to have expensive (at least for us) restaurant meals to celebrate. Christmas dinner was a five course meal at the 1907 Gibson Inn. It was beautifully decorated for the holidays. An appetizer (shrimp and crabmeat cocktail), salad (a variety of greens with goat cheese and their own special dressing) and soup (sweet potato) was the same for all diners. I had cornish game hen for my entree and orange creme brûlée for dessert. I had duck and pecan pie with ice cream covered with a mocha sauce. And I had the leftovers! 

New Years dinner was at the Owl Cafe, an 1880s building that is now part kitchen store, part restaurant and part Tap Room. We ordered off the menu. We both started with lobster bisque, then I had grouper and I had steak with a crab cakeDessert for me was a flan with caramel sauce and I can’t remember but it was good. They didn’t bring home any leftovers! This year is not starting out well. Our food fest didn’t stop there. We frequented Lynn’s Seafood store in Eastpoint and made Emeril Lagassee’s coconut shrimp, his shrimp and grits, fried and cajun oysters, grilled shrimp and oysters and maui mahi. Why do my clothes feel tighter? I’m not one to recommend products often but when we had the coconut shrimp we used a mango coconut pepper sauce by Tropical Pepper Co. If you see it in the store, buy it.

Emeril, coconut shrimp

Mmmm, Coconut Shrimp

Apalachicola, Gibson Inn

Christmas At The Gibson Inn

SGI, lighthouse

SGI Lighthouse At Christmas

Christmas, Apalachicola

Orman House At Christmas In Apalachicola

Most of this visit was spent leisurely walking beaches, kayaking on the lagoon and taking bike rides. Here everyone is out walking, biking, roller blading or boating. The easternmost end of the park is kept as a primitive area. You can walk or bike to it for free or pay a fee to drive the 5 miles out there. We chose to bike the 11 miles R/T from the campground twice. Not having ridden for almost a month my legs did feel it a bit on the first trip but by the second trip I rode back without a break. The road starts out paved then becomes broken pavement then a dirt road and lastly a dirt road with sand traps that will take you from 10mph to zero in 3 feet. Last year we photographed shrimp boats and this year it was oyster boats.

kayaking, St. George Island

Steve Enjoying Saint George Is.

oyster boat, Florida

Oyster Boat Reflection

oyster boats

Oyster Boats At Eastpoint

Florida

Florida Boat Pier Near Alligator Point

beach, SGI

Biking To East Beach

Saint George Island State Park

Where Sea Meets Sound

biking, SGI

Ride On Gal

kayaking, photography

Underwater Shot Of Chari Kayaking

beach, SGI

SGI East Beach

beach, gull

Gull Tracks

pets, Apalachicola

Opal At Estuary Beach

Florida, gulls

Sittin On The Dock Of The Bay

We did stop in to see the Apalachicola Maritime Museum. We got there about 1 o’clock and the staff was still at lunch so one of the instructors let us in and said “pay when the girls come back”. We learned a lot more about the history of the area such as its economic rise and fall through the cotton boom and Civil War. Remember when we talked about the Anaconda Plan? Well, the Apalachicola River was one of the first rivers to be blockaded as it was the outlet for one of the South’s major industrial centers, Columbus, GA. During the Civil War England turned to China, India and Egypt for cotton causing imports from the South to fall to 1/8 of pre-war status. The Confederates had booby trapped the Apalachicola River with log snags. These continued to plague steamboat traffic until the Corps of Engineers finally cleared the river. Next it was a logging boom town for cypress. One of the prettiest homes in town was built by logging merchant Thomas Coombs and now is the beautifully restored Coombs Inn. When that industry played out the area turned to fishing and oysters. Fresh water from the Apalachicola river mixes with the salt water of the bay to produce just the right mixture to nurture oyster beds. The area now supplies 10% of the nation’s oysters. The demand for the oysters is bringing a new threat of over harvesting to the area. We were told that currently a truck leaves Apalach once every hour to deliver oysters to the markets. The size of oysters is decreasing and some of the beds may need to be shut down. The museum also holds hands-on classes in wooden boat building and sailing. They offer day and week long cruises on their schooner Heritage as well as pontoon boat and airboat rides.

wooden boat

Museum Teaches Wooden Boat Building

Apalachicola marine museum

Marine Museum Schooner

One evening we took Opal for her beach time and decided to go to the western end of the island where we hadn’t been before. Do you ever feel like you are being put somewhere for a reason? First there were the dogs on the road, then the lady who fell and now… a house fire. We were walking back on the beach toward the truck when Steve looked up and said “That chimney is on fire!” Opal and I stayed on the beach while he ran to the house. No one was home even though doors were open. A neighbor just returning from shopping grabbed a hose while his wife called 911. Soon afterward the man renting the house appeared and fortunately so did the fire department. They doused the chimney and roof with foam and water. All was under control by the time we left.

chimney fire

Oh, Oh!

House Fire Crossfire

House Fire Crossfire

It's Not Raining

It’s Not Raining

W e did take one day to drive to Tallahassee to see Steve’s cousin. We got to town a bit early so we spent an hour or so at the Florida Museum of History. Not having time to see the whole museum we limited ourselves to a traveling art exhibit of Florida paintings and a quick walk through of agricultural history. Most of the artists we’d never heard about but there were 3 we recognized: Frederick Remington, Thomas Hart Benton and N. C. Wyeth. I never knew Remington did anything but western art. He had sold his collection of western art and through his connections with Teddy Roosevelt was allowed to go to Cuba to paint scenes from the Spanish American War. His Florida paintings were done while he was waiting to deploy. 

There are still three small museums left for us to see (the SGI lighhouse, the Orman House and the Raney House), kayaking the Apalachicola River and through the marshes at Tate’s Hell State Forest, taking a ferry over to St. Vincent’s Island NWR and more shrimp and oysters. So until we come back…..

Celebrating A Small Town Christmas

Christmas, Mississippi

Canton MS Lights

While we were in Mississippi we drove to the town of Canton near Jackson to see their lighting display. They decorate the town square and surrounding buildings. Families stroll about downtown. For some children it is their first ride on a carousel. The weather was cool and clear.

So here are some photos to put you in the holiday mood.

Christmas lights, Mississippi

Canton MS Street Scene

Christmas tree, Canton

Canton Christmas Tree

Christmas Lights, Mississippi

Fireman In Lights

Christmas decorations

Raggety Ann Glows

Gingerbread Man, Mrs. Santa

Gingerbread Man At Mrs. Santa’s House

gazebo, Christmas lights

Gazebo In Christmas Lights

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Christmas lights, Mississippi

Canton Town
Hall

 

 

 

Christmas, reindeer

These Reindeer Don’t Fly

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

carousel, Christmas lights

Enjoying The Carousel

 

TO ALL OF OUR READERS

A VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS

&

MAY 2o13 BRING YOU EVERY HAPPINESS

Christmas, New Years

Happy Holidays From Chari & Steve

 

Catch the Holiday Spirit In Natchez, Mississippi Part 1 Of 2

At Tupelo, Mississippi we took the exit for the Natchez Trace heading southwest across the state toward the city of Natchez. By doing this segment we will have travelled the entire parkway except for the section between the Alabama border and Tupelo. The Natchez Trace is one of five parkways under the  National Park Service banner. Can you name the other four without heading to Google or Wikipedia? Hint: Only one is located in a western state. Just so you won’t loose sleep over this I’ll put the answer at the end of this entry.

One of our bucket list goals is to visit all of the 391 (and growing) National Park sites. So far we have been to 58.

Natchez Trace, Mississippi, Travel

Traveling The Natchez Trace In Mississippi

Natchez Trace, tornado, Mississippi

Tornado Damage Along The Natchez Trace From April 2011 Storm

By taking the Natchez Trace our trip added an hour but who cares when the route is scenic and relatively free of traffic. Some place north of Jackson I asked Steve if he thought this would be a good road for me to try driving while pulling the trailer. I’d pulled our former 26′ trailer with the Toyota Highlander but never did learn to back in to camping sites. This trailer at 35′ long and 13′ high intimidated me but I knew I had to learn to do everything in case there would be a time when Steve couldn’t drive. So we pulled off at one of the many historic sites and I adjusted the seat and mirrors while Steve cleared out my “nest”. The “nest” is where I keep all of our maps, brochures, iPads and computers plus anything else we want handy. Having short legs is an advantage! So off we went. I was surprised to find the trailer pulled so easily. After a few minutes I relaxed. I learned how to judge braking time and once I even worked up the courage to pass a slow moving car. I did tense a bit as we went under the first overpass and Steve making a crunching noise didn’t help. Now I’m game to start learning to back in the next time we come to an easy site.

We arrived at Natchez State Park and pulled right into our full service site with a very level pad. Based on the two parks we have used we are very pleased with the Mississippi State Parks. We always tour the campgrounds to note sites we might want to use in the future. We were in campground A (old campground) but even the sites without sewer would easily accommodate our trailer. Campground B (new campground) has water and electric hookups and is on the lake. Again all of the sites looked spacious. We met another full time couple, Morey and Janet, from South Dakota and invited them over that evening. They’ve just completed their first year on the road. They were off to Texas for the winter.

Our first stop was to the Natchez Visitor Center for information on tours and for Chari to load up on brochures. We learned that 12 homes are normally open to the public. Right now two of them were undergoing renovation and were closed. During the Spring and Fall Pilgrimages these and over 30 private homes are open. Here only a day and already we’re saying “when we come back!” Natchez is one of the oldest cities in North America predating New Orleans by a few years. At various times it has been under French, British, Spanish and American governments. During the first half of the 1800s Natchez was chosen as the place to live by wealthy planters and merchants because it sits high on a bluff (i.e. not prone to flooding) and the breezes from the west cooled and reduced insects. At one time during the antebellum period, Natchez was home to 48 out of the 100 millionaires in the USA. Many of the men were originally from NY, PA and OH but married into prominent families. Adams County where Natchez is located was one of two counties that did not vote for secession from the Union. They feared, correctly, that whichever side won they would suffer financially. Oddly Vicksburg was the other holdout. Therefore Natchez was occupied early in the Civil War and the general in charge did not loot and destroy property. These actions preserved the properties we enjoy today.

One  of the plantation homes, Auburn, that normally charges $12/person was holding a free open house on December 9. We didn’t hesitate to take them up on the offer. They were trying to raise money for renovation of the kitchen building. There were volunteers in period dress, music and refreshments. All of the homes we would visit were lovely but the stories that went with them were even more fascinating. Auburn was designed for the first Attorney General of Mississippi, Lyman Harding by architect Levi Weeks and was completed in 1812. Weeks had gained notoriety when he was the defendant in a 1800 murder trial in New York known as the Manhattan Well Murder that was strikingly similar to the O. J. Simpson trial. Weeks was accused of killing a woman he was dating and stuffing her body down a well. His wealthy brother hired a “dream team” of lawyers that included Aaron Burr and Alexander Hamilton. Weeks was acquitted but public opinion ran against the decision and he was forced to leave New York. He relocated to Natchez. The feature Auburn is most noted for is the freestanding spiral staircase in the foyer. The staircase is made from cypress and the railing is black walnut. This was built by steaming the wood in spaghum moss and using bent wood techniques. Each of the 100+ spindles is hand carved with a round shape at the top and oval at the bottom. After Harding’s death in 1820, Auburn was purchased by a prominent physician, Stephen Duncan. It remained in the Duncan family until 1911. It was then donated to the city of Natchez. A city park was established on the grounds but the city wasn’t interested in the home. It fell into disrepair. All of the antiques were auctioned off. One of the docents said that several generations of Natchez children learned to roller skate inside this home! In 1972 a restoration project was begun by the Auburn Garden Club. Some of the original furnishings were located and donated back to the home. Today it is an excellent example of antebellum beauty. At the time I didn’t realize that there would be so few homes where we could take pictures. This home was beautifully decorated for the holidays as a special bonus.

Natchez, plantation, history

Approaching Auburn Plantation

Auburn, Natchez

Docents In Period Dress At Auburn

Christmas, plantation Auburn

Christmas At Auburn

Christmas, Natchez, plantation

More Christmas Decorations

Natchez, plantation, staircase

Spiral Staircase At Auburn From Second Floor

plantation, woodwork, Natchez

Artisans Created Intricate Woodwork

plantation, antiques, Natchez

Master Bedroom At Auburn

antiques, plantation, Mississippi

Antique Bureau

plantation, kitchen, Auburn

Kitchen Building As Seen From Second Floor Of Main House

The next day was cool and rainy so we wanted to do something inside. We chose the Natchez in Historical Photographs exhibit at the First Presbyterian Church. What a hidden gem this is! Rand McNally has even listed it as a Best of the Road selection for their 2011 Road Atlas. The exhibit houses over 500 photographs taken from the Civil War era through 1951 but most are from 1880-1920. It covers portraits from all levels of society and races, street scenes, men (and women) at work and play and river life. This is the collection of Thomas and Joan Gandy. Dr. Gandy found the glass plates and celluloid negatives that had been stored in boxes on an outside porch for decades. He realized their value and learned how to make prints from them. My favorite was of a street scene where a tailor is standing in the store’s doorway measuring a customer while outside the store is a sign offering information on the Klondike Gold Rush. No photos are allowed so you will just have to go see for yourself. What really impressed us though was a poem written by a local man called Youth. Both Steve and I felt this summed up our reason for doing what we’re doing. Steve has written a bit more about it.

There was, however, a poem, written by a Natchez resident, Samuel Ullman, entitled “YOUTH” hanging on the wall.  Mr. Ullman was a German Jew, born in 1840, and immigrated to the United States at age 11.  He died in 1924.  His poem struck a chord with both Chari and me, and we’d like to share it here.  A few of the words may seem a little dated today, as when he refers to what we call a radio with the word “wireless”.  We use “wireless” in today’s computer age with a similar but somewhat different meaning.  And the word “aerial” is a word I haven’t heard in years…  not since my own “YOUTH”.

Youth is not a time of life; it is a state of mind;

It is not a matter of rosy cheeks, red lips and supple knees;

It is a matter of the will, a quality of the imagination, a vigor of the emotions;

It is the freshness of the deep springs of life

Youth means a temperamental predominance of courage over timidity of the appetite,

For adventure over the love of ease.

This often exists in a man of sixty more than a body of twenty.  

Nobody grows old merely by a number of years.  

We grow old by deserting our ideals.

 Years may wrinkle the skin, but to give up enthusiasm wrinkles the soul.  

Worry,  fear, self-distrust bows the heart and turns the spirit back to dust. 

Whether sixty or sixteen, there is in every human being’s heart the lure of wonder,

The unfailing child-like appetite of what’s next, and the joy of the game of living.

 

In the center of your heart and my heart there is a wireless station;

So long as it receives messages of beauty, hope, cheer, courage and power from men and from the Infinite,

So long are you young.

When the aerials are down, and your spirit is covered with snows of cynicism and the ice of pessimism,

Then you are grown old, even at twenty,

But as long as your aerials are up, to catch the waves of optimism, there is hope you may die young at eighty.

What more can you say?

The chapel housing the exhibit is also interesting. It was built in 1828 but now is used as the education complex. The pews have the doors on the aisle similar to those we’ve seen in New England.

Natchez, church

First Presbyterian Church Stratton Chapel in Natchez

Christmas, decorations, church

Front Door Decorated For Christmas

Our next stop was at the two sites composing the Natchez Historical Park, a NPS site. The first was the plantation of Melrose. The entrance is lined with draping live oak reminiscent of Gone With The Wind. This mansion home was built in the Greek Revival style over the course of eight years by John McMurran, a wealthy lawyer, state legislator and cotton grower. This was one of five plantations he would eventually own. After moving to Natchez from Pennsylvania in the 1820s he married into a wealthy local family. Cotton was in high demand in England and prices were often manipulated by the growers. Today we’d call it a monopoly. In a good year a the  Mc Murrans could expect the equivalent of 3 million dollars. The Mc Murrans moved in to the mansion in 1849. The home was said to be decorated with everything “good taste and full purse” provided. They sold the property in 1865 to George Malin Davis after the death from disease of their daughter and grandchildren. The Davis family kept Melrose in the family until 1976. The National Park Service took possession in 1990. Currently the exterior is undergoing renovation. By Spring 2013 the front will be repainted the original cream color with a faux marble appearance.  A portrait of John C. Calhoun hung in the parlor. Since we had visited his home this summer, it was interesting to see how these families knew one another. The interior is lovely but dark. The shutters are kept closed to prevent discoloration from sunlight. This made hand held photography difficult. If you look closely at the master bed you will see 2 hooks on the rear of the canopy. This is where the mosquito netting was hung. The posts at the foot would be raised at night and the netting secured there. Yellow fever and malaria were constant threats in this area. Two slaves would use a large rolling pin to smooth the feather bed each morning. If you wanted to nap during the day, the day bed at the foot of the bed was used so as not to mess up the feather bed. In the dining room the large paddle structure over the table is called a punkah. Originally from India, it was operated by a slave and the back and forth motion cooled you and kept away flies.

Melrose, Natchez

Melros Plantation

Melrose, Natchez

Melrose Showing Chimney Stacks

plantation, slave quarters

Melrose Laundry With Slave Quarters On Second Floor

Melrose, Natchez National Historical Park

Winter Garden At Melrose

Christmas, Melrose, Natchez

Christmas At Melrose

Melrose, Mississippi, antiques

Master Bedroom At Melrose

Melrose, plantation

Melrose Parlor

Melrose, Natchez, plantation

Melrose Dining Room With Punkha

The next plantation is called Longwood and “it is the one everybody comes to see” because this is the largest octagonal house in the USA. Melrose seemed large at 16,000+ square feet but Longwood dwarfs it at 30,000 square feet. When wealthy cotton planter Haller Nutt (original family name was Scandinavian Knutt) wanted to build a new home he wanted something different than the current Greek Revival style, something to impress. He certainly got his wish. The Oriental villa with its Moorish Byzantine dome looks as if it were transplanted from Turkey to Natchez. The open rotunda towers 6 floors to the dome which is crowned with a 24 foot finial. The home was designed by a Philadelphia architect who brought 24 skilled workers with him and work was begun in 1860. One million bricks were made on the property. When the Civil War erupted in April 1861 the workers fled back North. The basement level was completed with local workers and the family moved to Longwood. Mr. Nutt thought the war would be short-lived and that the home would be completed when it was over. This was not to be. He died in 1864 and the remaining 2 floors were never finished. By luck or fate, our guide this day was a descendant of the Nutt family. His grandmother was the last inhabitant of Longwood. His mother grew up playing in the unfinished upper floors and wandering the estate. The furniture originally ordered for Longwood was confiscated by the Union port blockade. Therefore the furniture at Longwood came from Mrs. Nutt’s family and has remained there for 150 years. It was  beautifully decorated for Christmas. Much to our dismay no photos were allowed in the finished area but were allowed in the unfinished portions. We were told that the Pilgrimage Garden Club who now owns Longwood had allowed Bob Vila to film their sister property at Stanton Hall. When the show aired some enterprising crook used that to scope out the security system. Since then no photography has been allowed.

Longwood, Natchez, plantation

Longwood Plantation

Longwood, architecture

Architectural Plan For Longwood

architecture, plantation

Looking Up The Unfinished Rotunda

Longwood, Natchez, Mississippi

Longwood Main Floor

Longwood, Natchez

View From Longwood Front Porch

While we were waiting for the tour of Longwood to start an interesting event happened. Our guide, Alex, mentioned that he lived with his mother and grandmother on a plantation which was the oldest continuously inhabited plantation in Natchez. A man in the tour was from Natchez and asked “Do you still have the Mastadon tooth?” Alex replied “Yes. We used to use it as a door stop until someone told us how rare and valuable it was. Now we have it under glass.” The first man asked “Have you ever heard the story of when it was found?” Alex hadn’t. Here’s the story. It was Alex great grandfather or uncle who found a mastodon skeleton on the property. It was dug out carefully. It was very brittle. Ten men carefully moved the skull onto a truck. His great grandfather told the workers to take it up to the barn and he’d be along shortly. When he got to the barn he saw nothing but a pile of dust and some teeth. The workers, not knowing what these old bones were had just thrown it off the truck. The tooth they have now is the only thing that survived.

We can see that this post is going to be quite long. It was a very busy week. Since we want to get this posted before the holidays we’ll split it up into two parts. Before we go, here’s the answer to the National Park Service trivia question: the 5 parkways are 1) Natchez Trace Parkway  2) Blue Ridge Parkway   3) Skyline Drive   4) George Washington Parkway   5) Rockefeller Parkway between Yellowstone and Grand Teton NP.